但馬のきのこ

ウスタケ No.18

　ウスタケ　　ヒダナシタケ目　ラッパタケ科

　ロート状の赤褐色のキノコ。ササクレがあって、紛らわしい別のキノコはない。
　これは確か食べられるはずだったと思い、最近の図鑑で調べてみると、なんと毒キノコとなっていた。おかしいなあと思いながら調べていくと、山渓の「日本のきのこ」にかろうじて、「ゆでこぼせば食べられるが、過食すると下痢をする。」となっている。
　仕方ないので、ゆでこぼして少し味見をしてみるかと思いつつ、念のため、昭和４３年発刊の家の光協会の「キノコ全科」を見てみると、「歯切れ良くこくのある口当たりは大きな魅力、脂肪、淡白、いずれの料理にも良くあう。大いに利用したい味覚源。」と、べたほめ。さらに、昭和４９年の山渓の「カラー日本のキノコ」では、「紛らわしい毒菌はなく安心して食用にしてよい。」、昭和４５年の保育社「標準原色図鑑全集１４菌類」、昭和４８年の保育社「カラー自然ガイドきのこ」でも食用と断定している。ようやく昭和５２年の北海タイムス「原色北海道のきのこ」では「軽い下痢をおこすことがあるので用心すること。」との記載があった。

　30年前の図鑑など見る人はほとんどいないだろう。最近のきのこ図鑑は過敏に毒菌として扱うことが多すぎるようで、ウスタケは完全に忌み嫌うべき毒きのこにされてしまっている。
　かつては美味菌としてベタ誉めされたこともあるきのこが、日本の食文化から追放されようとしている。僕はだんだん腹が立ってきたので、ウスタケの名誉のために味見なんて失礼なことはやめて、大きなやつを１本をラーメンにいれて食ってやった。残りはイグチsp.、カバイロツルタケ、キクラゲ、ホコリタケと一緒に佃煮にしてやった。もちろんたいへん美味しく、今のところなんともない。キノコ全科に書いてあるとおり、歯切れ良く、舌触り良好、味はまずまずといったところか。

　確かに毒成分はあるのだろうが、図鑑にドクロマークを付けるのは納得いかない。
　０２，１０，１５　豊岡市山本

at: 2002/10/07(Mon)

岩本和久 2002/10/17(Thu)/16:43:57 No.19

キノコはすごく興味があります。かつての美味菌が日本の食文化から追放されるなんて嫌ですね。「キノコの王国」の小山さんに、培養してもらいたいくらいです。「これは」という菌を培養してもらう計画はどうでしょうか。稲葉さんの話は食欲をそそって困ります(^^;。

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